When I lived in Japan, I took all my visitors to Takayama to see the contrast between the modern and busy Japan, and its quieter side. Mostly, I return so often because I love taking the Wide View Hida Express train, which hugs the Hida River and traverses through mountains. I’ve done this train ride in the winter once, and that was magical. The village of Shiragawa-Go looked spectacular in the snow, and as I was waiting to get on the train in the heat of August, that’s what I had on my mind: the snow.
This year, though, I’m here in the summer when the Hida River is a turquoise green, the trees a lush green, and the farm lands, cut into neat green squares, dot the valleys. Takayama is hosting its own Tanabata festivities, and unlike Sendai’s festivities, this is more of a local event.
I start my visit to Takayama with the Higashiyama Walking Course to explore Takayama’s temples and shrines – I hardly see anyone on this walk and I’m pleased to meander in the quiet. A few notices in some of the temples let me know that there are bears in the area, and to scare them off, I’m to rattle a baton inside of a steel bucket: both are hung on a notice board. I’m never forced to use them.
In the afternoon, the Tanabata festivities begin. Vendors are selling street food, a folk band with an eclectic collection of elderly, jolly members is jamming in the nook of a closed store, and down the road from them high school bands take turns on a small stage, still in their school uniforms. Lots of families are out on this lovely evening.
Takayama is a bus ride away from Kamikochi, and on a sunny morning, I leave my hostel to get on the earliest departing bus. Last time I visited was just at the start of spring, and I took my mum for a short hike. In front of us, on the hike, were several ladies with high heels. Lots of tourists flock to Kamikochi in all kinds of attire. In the summer the park’s roads are closed to traffic and shuttle buses hop from stop to stop, bringing not only the nature lovers, but also throngs of casual tourists to snap a photo of a crystal clear river or the peak of a mountain.
I’m not one to make judgements about the shoes, though – for a two month getaway to Asia, I’ve only brought one small backpack, and half of it is filled with clothes appropriate for teaching. There’s no room in my pack for hiking boots, so I’m hiking in sandals and shorts, and today on the trail I’m the one that looks unprepared: I pass hikers with ankle-high boots, wide-brimmed hats, hydration packs and walking sticks. My feet are sliding on the tree roots but it’s worth the struggle because I manage to get far enough away from the main spots of interest that I find places to be totally alone, minus some monkeys that I see along the way.
Back at Takayama for the evening, a hostel room-mate and I go to Heianraku, a vegan and vegetarian restaurant. The food is delicious, and the atmosphere is so welcoming and cheerful that no one who comes here misses the meat.
As we take our seats by the bar, the owner looks at me and holds my gaze and shouts a big hello – he remembers my face from the last time I was here, four years ago! My smile spills all over my face.