I make the mistake of waking up early on my first day and setting off in an attempt to avoid the crowds of tourists in Reykjavik. I want to see the city awaken; I think morning is a lovely time to see New York City – not so here.
Reykjavik is still rather groggy in the early morning. Most things open at 11 am, bar the bakeries that sell amazing breads and pastries. They are large and delicious. The breads are stodgy, like the kind of bread I grew up with in Poland. It’s not fluffy and power white. A slice leaves you satisfied.
If you take a walking tour of the city you’ll learn, from the local guides, that most of the locals will only start their evening festivities at 1 in the morning – in the summer it still happens to be fairly light out at this hour. However, by 1 am I am tucked into my hostel bed which is why I’m ready to burst out and explore before 9am. If the night starts at 1am, I’m not surprised that the city sleeps in.
It was a mistake that I didn’t, but you should certainly start your trip at Reykjavik’s official tourist information centre – it’s a good place to get your bearing of the city and the island, learn a little about Iceland’s history and the impact of tourism. With increasing amounts of tourists making their way to the island, we need to be more conscious of the effect that we are having on the ecosystems and culture so that Iceland’s beauty can be preserved.
Some things I learned: 1 in 10 cars in Iceland is a rental; 50% of the workforce in tourism is foreign (everyone at the airport seems to be Polish, seeing my passport and greeting me with ‘dziendobry’); when AirBnB started, there were 3 listing in Reykjavik and now there are ~3000.
After you’ve been to the Tourist Information, pick up a copy of The Reykjavik Grapevine and head to a pub or cafe. You’ll learn useful information about how not to be an annoying tourist in Iceland: In the July 2017 edition of Grapevine, readers were alerted to the growing problem with people defecating alongside roads and, even, in the city. What? Just don’t. Also, don’t build cairns: the rock pile statues aren’t symbols of “I’ve been here,” or write “send nudes” into a mossy hill for a fun Instagram post. The Reykjavik Grapevine also lists bar opening times, happy hour times (very important since drinking in Iceland is expensive, but they do have some lovely local brews), and the ongoings of cultural, musical and artistic events around Reykjavik.
Now, knowing how to be good to Iceland, begin your adventure.
There are two main streets in Reykiavik: Hverfisgata and Skólavörðustígur where you can wander from pub, to restaurant to bakery to gift shop to wool shop to gift shop to wool shop. There is a lot of wool on sale and it is hard not to want to buy a sweater, especially as the cold whips through you and you curse yourself for forgetting to pack a hat and gloves. The slogans for the shops keep your spirits up in the weather: North 66’s slogan is, “Waiting for summer since 1926” and depicts a model who stands in the rain. You can’t help but like the rain and wait for a spot of sunshine. Both locals and tourists are wearing the traditional sheep’s wool Icelandic sweater and it is tempting not to want to buy one and keep warm, until I see the price. I know some of them are handmade and will keep me warm for years to come, but I can’t bear to part with17,000 20,000 króna.
Reykjavik is a city where you won’t go hungry, particularly if you love fish stew. I had several fish stews in Iceland: they’re always different and always delicious, so do not go thinking that once you’ve had it, that’s that. Try as many as you can. A particularly delicious one was served at Messinn – it was sweet, tangy and creamy, included grapes and chunks of various fish. Luckily we went during their lunch menu and it was a little cheaper than the dinner menu serving. Oh, their salmon burger was also amazing. My mouth is watering a little right now at the memory of my meal here. The Seagreifinn – The Sea Baron also serves a delicious lobster soup. It’s a little shack, really, on the harbour front. When you walk in, don’t ask for the menu. Just look to your left where you will find a display of fish, already cut up and skewered into different varieties, and point to what you’d like, unless it’s the lobster soup.
When you’re fed and warm, wander. Don’t be dismayed by the architecture, especially if you’re used to travelling to those countries where architecture is the main allure that reveals ancient history and is considered art. Reykjavik’s outside demeanour isn’t lavish and overly interesting; the buildings are mainly built for purpose, not for viewing pleasure, I think. You have to step inside to find life, and you’ll find lots of it, hiding away from the weather and keeping warm. I particularly liked ‘The Lebowski Bar’ – if you’re a fan of the film, you’ll certainly want to step inside and have a grand time quizzing your friends about the references to the film that the bar’s interior is made of.