Hwy 12 and the Lush Clearwater National Forest, Idaho

On a sunny morning I drive out of Butte and head for Missoula where I plan to camp and have the day to explore the town. I find a good place to have breakfast, plonk the address into my Sat Nav and hit the road.

Paul’s Pancakes is outside of Missoula’s downtown, in a mall complex, next to a huge DIY superstore – not the usual place for a famous cafe. But, once again, I am reminded not to judge based on the outside because as soon as I step through the door the dim lighting, the noise and chatter coming from all the tables, is extraordinary – the place is alive and the smells of a warm, cooked breakfast tickle my nose and excite my stomach. I order the stack of 4 Buttermilk Blueberry Pancakes and when it comes my head spins. A scoop of butter sits on top of the pancakes, quickly melting. The pancakes are filled with real blueberries. I dig in, but the pancakes defeat me. I am unable to eat them all. My coffee cup is always full of coffee, no matter how much I drink – this is something I love about diners in the States – constant coffee refills.

I am disappointed by Missoula when I get to its historic downtown. It’s nice. Clean. Crisp. New. Straight. And I am quickly bored. I meander through the downtown where Main Street isn’t actually the town’s main street – Higgins is. I walk to the town’s famous carousel. I step in and out of some boutiques. I look at the people who are milling in and outside of bakeries and coffeehouses. But the city feels cold, and I miss Butte’s character that is easily read through it’s architecture and people. Missoula is a regular town. Nice to live in, probably; not that interesting to visit.

So I get into the car, drive on, and am glad because I am soon on Hwy 12 heading west through thick, lush forest. Even with the windows down and the air rushing through the car, I enjoy the strong smell of pine. Since North Dakota, I have been reading about and seeing signs for the Lewis and Clark trail, and now I am finally on it. The area is home to the Nez Perce indigenous tribe, and the highway is also a part of the Nez Perce trail – the route used by the tribe. The road is also known as the Lolo Pass.

Just past Lolo a road sign informs me that the next 90 miles of road are going to be windy. Glorious. Another sign soon informs me that I will soon be approaching the last gas station for 90 miles. Phone service dies.

I cross the state boundary into Idaho where an amazing Visitor’s Information Centre welcomes me to the Clearwater National Forest.

The road, heading west, is all downhill where the speed limit is 50mph. There is very little traffic and the route is popular with motorcycles. Most traffic seems to be heading east, and I have the roads to myself, having great fun steering round the bends. The road isn’t a designated scenic route, but it does deserve the title. The highway follows the Lochsa River, at once still and wide, and then narrow and full of rapids; and of course, you have the forest all around you. There are many opportunities along the road to stop, breathe and enjoy the views.

There are numerous campgrounds along the route, but the kind lady at the Visitor’s Centre informs me that the nicest and most remote (that my car will be able to access) is Wilderness Gateway. She is right – the campground is beautiful and many of the sites sit right on the Lochsa River. Additionally, the campground is nearly deserted – I feel like a lone ranger, the world mine to enjoy and explore.

I spend the rest of the day exploring the campground, walking some of it’s short loop trails and then I take a dip in the river. It is cold. So cold that my feet are quickly numb, but after being in the hot sun, the water is refreshing. I grab hold of a rock, let my body float and the river rush past me. After dinner I sit on one of the dry rocks on the river. As the sun sets, I lounge on the rock, reading The Big Sky. Sadly, this is the time that my phone decides it too wants a dip in the river – the WiFi dies (a few days later I’m informed that it will not work again.)

I wake up to a light fog that is already lifting over the mountains. Before the sun is too high and heating the mountain face, my hike begins. The forest is home to numerous trails for day hiking and backpacking. I take the one closest to the campground, The Blowout Mountain Trail #211. The hike begins with a long and steady uphill with several switchbacks before it hits the ridge which it then follows. Because the sun has not yet warmed this side of the mountain, the walk is very pleasant and I am kept cool as my hiking trousers collect all the morning dew. When the trail finishes, it meets up with another trail, and as it is still morning, I keep on walking. Five hours later I am back in the river and cooling my body – the sun caught up with me, and it shone with ardour.