The drive from Florence to Sisters is beautiful, winding through thick forests, following a river and then slowly ascending into the mountains.
Along the way I stop in Eugene, home of the University of Oregon, and the town doesn’t let you forget it. There are ‘O’ stickers everywhere – on cars, in windows, on T-Shirts, mugs, postcards, baseball caps, lawn chairs, mailboxes… Everywhere. And not just in the beautifully green campus, but all over Eugene. In the few hours I spend here I walk through and around the campus, stroll up and down Willamette and Broadway, and explore the Fifth Street Public Market.
Soon, I grow tired of the city and the heat that is blasting off the concrete below me, and from the sun above – it is a particularly hot day with highs of 100F. Doesn’t that sound impressive in Fahrenheit? It’s 37.7C. Hot, but not humid. Still bearable, but the people of Eugene seem not to think so – very few of them are out.
I get into Sisters in the early afternoon, by the time the sun has had time to shine its rays, heap up the concrete, so now the heat is coming at me from above, but also rising from below. As I walk I think that the soles of my sandals are softer, more malleable and rubbery. There is no escaping into the shade – the main road runs East to West. Some of the stores have canopies, but I can get the shade only if I have my shoulder against the shop windows, my head tilted right. It’s not worth it. At least it is a dry heat. The sweat evaporates rather than lingering on my forehead and above my upper lip.
By 5,30pm Sisters is sleeping, but it is still nice to wander the street, gazing through the shop windows. The town has kept, or recreated, the Wild West charm – many buildings are made of wood, wooden boardwalks instead of pavement and, of course, a saloon. There are also statues of horses and other things Western everywhere.
I am camping about 10km south of Sisters in the Willamette National Forest. It is so dry, the earth is dust. It doesn’t matter how lightly or slowly I try to step, I stir the dust into life. It creeps between my toes, under my fingernails and behind my ears. At least it does not settle above my upper lip to try and add crunch to my dinner – perhaps there is too much of a salt deposit there already. The forest is pine, and the pine needles on the ground crunch loudly as I step – usually pine needles create a soft carpet on the forest floor, but these needles are tough and sharp, and there is a loud crinkle each time I step. I have to remove a few sharp needle points from my feet – perhaps I shouldn’t be wearing sandals here, but it’s too hot for shoes.
Bend is the next stop, known to be an outdoor heaven for hikers, bikers, skiiers and kayakers. It is situated at the start of the Cascade Lakes Highway, a 66 mile circular scenic route through the Deschutes National Forest. The mountainous landscape and scattered lakes are created by volcanic eruptions and glacial movement, making this a perfect place to holiday. Knowing this, I spend only an hour in Bend (which is much bigger and busier than Sisters)…long enough to visit the Bend Brewing Company, and then head off for the highway.
There are numerous campgrounds, many of which are open to reservations. This is the first time on the trip that I have to travel to more than one campground to find a spot. Luckily, I find one right near Lava Lake. National Forests allow dispersed camping, as long as you’re no more than 300 feet off the road, but as I drove, tired and dirty, I did not see any really good places to camp – I only found some incredible spots as I become more familiar with the park. I should have been more adventurous.
I spend the next two days driving around the highway, sometimes taking to the side gravel roads and finding that I have to turn back because the car jiggles too much, sounding as if every bolt and screw is coming undone. I manage a few of the roads, though, and enjoy being the only one in a place of amazing views, fresh air and a still quiet. Lots of rabbits and deer to be seen, too.
I visit as many of the lakes as I can – some of them are too cold for swimming, others are designated for fishing and water sports, but I do get in and swim often. It feels nice to get into a lake. I’ve been keeping clean, bar my hair, so the first time I dunk my head and feel the water on my head it is heavenly. The water is crisp and clear, the lakes bottom sandy. (At Forest Service Campgrounds, the facilities are few – a flushing toilet, maybe. No showers.) The views from the lake are stunning, and its great fun to swim and play and see the forests and mountains all around. Many of the lakes are a bit of a hike away – nothing better than a dip during a hike to restore some energy and make you fresh for the hike back.
I go up the ski lift to to top of Mt. Bachelor. It’s relaxing going up, floating above the land and the views of the Cascade Highway from here are awesome – you can trace the ribbon of winding road. During the summer, the mountain opens up mountain biking trails, and the lift is mainly used my mountain bikers. The bikers, of all ages by the way, are having a lot of fun riding down the trails, getting back on the lift and repeating the rides.
Back at camp, as the weather chills, a fire keeps me warm and gives off the light I need to read.
Next time I visit I will have a bike, a helmet, shin pads and a kayak. Bend and the Deschutes National Forest is really a heaven for people who love outdoor sports.