People will likely never encourage travel to England in November, but I’m here to let you know that there’s one attraction like no other, and you’ll need to be in England…in November. The 5th of November. Remember, remember, the 5th of November.
It’s Guy Fawkes Day, and there’s no place like Lewes to celebrate. It’s the biggest Guy Fawkes Day celebration in the world, and it’s worth going if you’re into fire, fireworks, costumes and beer, not to mention history, including the Gunpowder Plot, and politics.
On the morning of the 5th Lewes prepares. Shop owners board up their shops with plywood. Cars leave the town and are barred from entering, turning Lewes into a pedestrian paradise. Mulled wine and beer starts to flow. People who belong to Bonfire Societies start dressing up – anyone wearing a jumper with horizonal lines is part of a society. Each society has its own colours. If participants don’t wear their jumpers, they’ll dress up as Indians, Victorians, Vikings and more – each society has its own theme. Some costumes are intricate pieces that take a lot of time and effort to prepare, and are stunning – participants enter a ‘best costume’ contest, of course.
The celebrations begin around 4pm. Each society has its ‘home pub,’ but it’s not necessary to be at one of these to soak up the atmosphere. Get your beer and start wandering around the city. You’ll be hearing a number of percussion bands battling to be the loudest and baddest band, revving up Lewes citizens and the crowds of people that travel to Lewes for the day. To kick off the festivities you’ll want to see the barrel race during
which society members run while dragging behind them a very heavy and hot barrel full of burning embers along a cobble-stone road – it doesn’t look easy. A few barrels will also be sent down the River Ouse.
At 5pm there is usually a child’s procession, but the fun doesn’t being until the Grand Parade, the one that you want to get a good spot along High Street for, which begins at 8pm. It’s dark by then, and sometimes raining, but worry not. Parade participants all carry a torch, and you’ll have no need for light – the city is aglow in a pinkish-orange haze, the orange of the fire mingling with the pink of the flares that are often lit. If you’re lucky enough to be a spectator in the front rows, the heat and smoke from the torches will likely cause any drizzle to evaporate before it gets time to settle on your brow.
The parade is magnificent, especially if you’re one of those people that are hypnotized by fire. You’ll also have to like firecrackers and bangers, because there are a ton going off…sometimes much too close for spectator’s liking (in fact, in years past, the use of bangers wasn’t strictly regulated there would be casualties with severe harm caused, but it’s safe(er) now.) If you don’t like unexpected loud noises, bring ear defenders or ear plugs, or stand back from the front rows where the sound will be muffled by the cheers and chatter of other spectators.
During the parade, there is a prayer, trumpet call and a marked silence to commemorate those lost to wars, with Remembrance Day not to far off. An effigy of Guy Fawkes is paraded, to be blown up later. Each society also builds an effigy – intricate and big pieces of paper-mache work – if you follow politics, this is your time to converse with your mates and remember some of the major political stories of the year. In 2015 a society created an effigy of David Cameron, UK’s Prime Minister. Once you reach the bonfire site, you’ll see the effigy blown up.
At the end of the parade, each society goes off to its own bonfire site, and you should follow one of the societies. The bonfires are gigantic. Really, they are. They are about 3 stories high, and take days to prepare. I’ve usually gone to Commercial’s bonfire. At each of the bonfires there’s usually a sermon of some kind, society members have fun throwing bangers, the bonfire is lit, and the night ends with spectacular fireworks – you may need a neck massage after.
If you’re really interested in Bonfire and Guy Fawkes Day, and you’re around Sussex from mid-October to mid-November, you can attend several other Bonfire Nights. Other villages with Bonfire Societies in Sussex celebrate with their own processions, effigies and fireworks. I’ve always enjoyed going to East Hoathley, Firle and Barcombe – they are smaller, cozier affairs, but the processions, bonfires and fireworks are all still incredible.