Kyoto. I know it’s on everyone’s list; it’s still, and always will be, on mine. I feel like I can get to Kyoto and not look at a map, though I admit the names of the neighbourhoods, temples and shrines elude me until I am in front of them (I’m terrible with remembering place names.)
One year when my mum visited me in Japan, I took her to Kyoto and we spent the entire first day walking, visiting the main temples near the city-centre, then walking as far as Kinkaku-ji before making our way to Higashiyama Jisho-ji, though by the time we got there it was closed and our feet were heavy as logs, sore and properly blistered…still, we walked all the way back to our guesthouse. Even when I brought my Grandma, who had a few days prior to Kyoto fallen off a bicycle in Numazu in injured her knee, we couldn’t resist the walking. Lessons learned: I now always have good walking shoes for Kyoto (this summer, it’s well worn-in sandals, the same ones that I used to hike in Kamikochi!) There’s a lot to see in Kyoto, and though public transport is easy to use, I prefer to get to most places by foot or by bicycle – it is easier to get lost that way, and stumble upon various hidden treasures which are abundant.
This summer, I spend three full days in Kyoto, and still there are areas of the city I miss. Peppered into my days are the regular tourist stops: Yasaka-Jinja Shrine, Kiyomizu-dera, Nanzenji-in Temple, the Philosopher’s Walk, Higashiyama Jisho-Ji, Heian-Jingu Shrine, and Nijo Castle, Kyoto’s Imperial Palace. Since it’s August, Kyoto is also host to various matsuris, and I walk from one to another until my feet are blistered (it’s unavailable, I guess) and my stomach is full of takoyaki.
One day I rent a bicycle. The bike is a blessing – not only do the soles of my feet get a break, but I get to enjoy the breeze (though every time I stop, the little droplets of sweat there were too scared to seep out of my pores and be dried by the wind decide to slosh out in a rush…luckily, I’ve got my little towel ready to wipe them away.) By the end of the day I’ve visited the used book fair at Shimogamo Shrine (where I also get to scope out a traditional Japanese wedding and enjoy a traditional cold black bean soup), I get lost in some more of the homey neighbourhoods away from tourist crowds, and by the evening I’m biking along the Kamo River, enjoying another festival that includes floating lanterns and maiko dancers.
One morning is devoted to hopping on a short train ride to walk the bamboo walkway and enjoy a respite from the sun. The bamboos are lovely, calm and magically restorative for the soul.
Of course, one can’t miss the Fushimi Inari Taisha that is made famous by almost everyone who comes to see the thousands of torii gates and posts them on Instagram…I’m also part of this crowd though I try hard not to be annyoing about it, and I don’t pose; it’s hard not to take photos of such a photogenic and unique space.
Though August is an incredible time to visit Kyoto, even though it is hot, I prefer March so that I can enjoy all the spring matsuri. The still chill air make it easier to walk long distances, and the festivals to welcome spring are stunningly beautiful and cheerful. The photos below are from Spring 2015.
