I’ve been to Sendai once before, in the winter; Sendai in winter is nothing like Sendai in the summer when the city is celebrating the Tanabata Festival. The city is decorated in long paper streamers that are hung all over town and burst with colour. Hundreds of them are draped along ropes that are hanging in the shopping arcades and laneways: you have to walk under and sometimes part ways through them. I can’t stop my hand from reaching out to run my fingers through the streamers, feeling how sturdy they are despite their elegant and delicate appearance. Each streamer is handmade, and each has a tag letting the public know who made it – there is a competition for the best one and I’m glad I’m not the judge.
Meandering the streets, I stumble among several small celebrations that are taking place in the city. In one alleyway, a group of young girls is performing a dance; in another, band members are strumming their guitars while people sit on the curb eating street food; in Shimin Hiroba Square, a stage is adorned with dance troupes, after which they parade down the street. It’s all methodical, yet free at the same time, a reminder that there is freedom in routine, custom and tradition.
Positive energy runs through Sendai, and right into me. I’m not sure anyone can be in a bad mood here, not if everything looks like you’re inside of a fairytale, and many about you are dancing.
As night draws near and the air cools, more people filter out in the streets, many wearing their summer yukatas. People are giggling and smiling, and there is an atmosphere of joy and delight. Most of the groups make their way to Nishi Park where steam is rising off of grills and transporting the smell of food into hungry noses. Jozenji-dori, one of the main streets, has been closed to traffic – the asphalt is covered with people who sit on small blankets with their street food and beer, laughing with friends, and waiting for the fireworks. It’s all very organized, neat and tidy, though there really are masses of people about. It’s impressive.
I spend the night at the 9 Hours Capsule Hotel. The hotel is well organized with arrows and signs, and I make my way to hole up in my capsule.
In the morning, I’m out to enjoy more of the festivities before I’m back on the Shinkansen, headed for Takayama.