This was my first trip to Cuba, so I have no authority in saying that Trinidad is the best city in Cuba to visit, but I can say it is a city full of colours, textures, music and smiles where you can spend your time meandering through the town, wandering into people’s homes, drinking delicious coffee and dancing long after the sun sets. You’ll leave happier, lighter in sprit, than when you came.
We arrive from Ancon just past noon. The centre of town is quiet – the locals have probably found shady spots in which to nap, reserving their energy for the evening when the sun sets and play time begins.
A few people use the quiet time to push dust out of their homes with long, wooden brooms, some spraying the foyer and pavement with cool water to add a little fresh chill. We walk into an elementary school where a teacher is preparing for the coming term; she lets us wander around the classroom, peeking into student’s desks and books to get a feeling of what the place might be like populated with young ones. She happily answers our questions, looking up from her pile of marking, although we can tell that she’s tired. We walk into a high school and do the same. Most of the buildings seem to be open, and we’re free to wander in and out at our leisure.
As the heat of noon passes, people begin to perch on their door steps, forming groups of laughing locals. Children play, running round lamp posts, riding their tricycles, stopping to smile at the foreigners and wondering if they’ll give them a sweet. People aren’t shy here. They all smile and say something as we walk by, or we’re encouraged to stop for a chat – thankfully, my travelling companion speaks Spanish and the locals love her for it.
I stop to take a picture of a pink house when a man comes out, smiles and waves us inside. Sweating on a table is a huge rectangular cake with white icing and a dancing Disney Princess – it is his daughter’s birthday and the family is beginning to gather for a celebration. The father ushers us through the house, pointing to this and that, introducing us to the family that has already arrived for the party.
The generosity, easy manner and trust that the locals have is warming – people like each other here. I like it.
Despite the heat that is wafting up from the sun-drenched pavement, we continue to wander aimlessly, turning only when something in a street strikes our fancy and we want to get a closer look. Often, we walk towards cars, those old 1950s cars whose exteriors have been beautifully maintained. We continue to peek through windows whenever we can, to gasp at the intricate floors, furniture and general 1950s elite décor in some of the more prestigious houses. The area where the poorer live is just a block away. We wander through these neighbourhoods too, and are just as amazed.
The city is a different place at night. The town square is full of bodies, loudly chattering and laughing. People are lounging on the benches, relaxing on the curb, resting against the concrete walls that have by now lost their heat. The party is not restrained to the indoors now that the heat is gone – the party spills out ono the sidewalks and everyone is welcome.
Most of the night crowds and the music will lead you to Casa de la Musica. You can step right onto the floor and dance in front of a live band, or grab a Cristal and sit on steps and soak up the cheer, and courage, before you start to dance. Don’t worry if you don’t know how to salsa – there are plenty of partners willing to teach. Just smile and go with it.